1.6L, 1.8L & the 2L for the SP20 versions. My wife didn't like the standard ride height though for getting in & out of.Ĭame with 3 engine choices here in Australia. The 323 a lot of times I didn't even need to slow down much if at all to go over speed bumps. Ride comfort on bad roads much better then my current daily driver 2003 Mazda2 DY. Stable & reassuring wheel base length, not twitchy at all I found. Comfy ride & can be driven along quite sportily still. Plenty enough of comfy room for passengers & cargo. In middle trim with the 1.8L engine & auto transmission. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.My previous daily driver was a 2003 (final production year) 323 BJ2 Astina wagon :) What the Americans would call a 323 Protege5 I believe. Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Included are Instructional Diagrams for loosening (for removal) and tightening (for replacement) using the Adjustment and Locking Bolts/Nuts. It has the Belt Diagrams for your 2002 Mazda Protege 5 2.0L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder Engine along with various engine options (AC/No AC, etc.). Included are Instrucional Diagrams for loosening (for removal) and tightening (for replacement) using the Adjustment and Locking Bolts/Nuts. It has the Belt Diagrams for the 1997 Mazda Protege with either the 1.5L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder or 1.8L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder Engines along with various engine options (AC/No AC, etc.). Both are included Below Click on the following free direct Link. Posted by Asker under 1997 Mazda Protege for their 2002 Mazda Protege 5. Clean averything well and grease the slide pins with a good quality waterproof grease. After you work it a few times it will tighten back up just fine. After you do your brakes you may notice that your parking brake has A LOT of play. But you HAVE to at least start it back in. Then you can push the piston back in with a regular piston push back tool. Then turn the set screw in there out a few turns. You need to take this off the caliper and reach inside with an allen head (I think it's 5mm). Biggest issue with the protege is getting the piston back in. I have done 100's of brake jobs on lots of different vehicles. 1) I have owned a Mazda protege 5 for the last 4 years 2) I have done 2 complete brake jobs on it 3) I am a braking systems engineer. My ABS problem was intermittent, and the ABS would sometimes kick in on completely dry pavement as soon as I touched the break pedal, it almost caused me to rear-end a car on couple of occasions. Also, do not drive around without fixing this problem or bypassing ABS completely because it could get you into an accident. There is a way to just disable the ABS by pulling out the 60A fuse, but if you do that you may have to plug in a code reader and use a grounding jumper on the ABS electical access box (don't remember which pin) to reset the ABS faults, otherwise you won't be able to drive around like that because your engine rpm at high speeds will behave erratically. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable and use an ohm-meter to check the resistance of all four sensors (they should all be similar, but don't remember the value exactly). Look at the wheel speed sensor and make sure the gap between the sensor head and the sprocket is the same on all four wheels (should be no more than a mm). Make sure that the connector they plug into has good connections. Visually check all four cables and sensors, and make sure there is no build up on the sensors. One way to confirm it is to read out the OBD2 codes for the ABS system, but there are some checks you can do. It is most likely caused by one of the ABS wheel speed sensors, those little cylindrical nipples on the back of your rotors with the cable attached to them. SOURCE: 2002 Mazda Protege ABS & Brake light
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